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► REWATCH ALL THE SHOWS ◄
© Claire Guillon AELIS
Alexander Fury brings veritable passion, erudition, authority, and a unfiltered style to fashion journalism, contributing to the industry’s leading titles for more than a decade. Currently, he is the menswear critic at the Financial Times and the fashion features director at Another Magazine. In addition to authoring several books on fashion, he is also an avid collector with an archive that numbers upwards of 3,000 pieces. This week, during the Haute Couture collections, some of the highlights were on view in collaboration with the platform, ReSEE, where he will pen a monthly column, fittingly titled Behind The Seams. Here, his selection for Just One Piece is an elegy to both Christian Lacroix and the living legacy of Haute Couture.
► Just One Piece: Alexander Fury ◄ Open since early May following the The Met Gala, In America: An Anthology of Fashion is the second of a two-part exhibition at The Costume Institute that plays out as a series of tableaux vivants showcasing the creations of designers and dressmakers from the 19th to mid-20th century. With Chloe Zhao, Sofia Coppola, Tom Ford, Radha Blank, Janicza Bravo and Martin Scorsese among those bringing an inspired and individual perspective to each of the rooms, the exhibition – along with In America: A Lexicon of Fashion – is a must-see cultural event that revisits historical fashion with a more expansive and inclusive approach. Here, an interview with Jessica Reagan, associate curator, The Costume Institute.
► Exploring American fashion history ◄ “Among my inspirations this season, there is the importance of hairstyles in African culture, so I worked a lot on textures. I love the rich texture of this black embroidery made of fringes and sequins.”
► Collection Snapshot: Imane Ayissi ◄ “I’ve always been very crafty. I started making my own clothes at 14, cutting them, patching them up. When I presented my models to Marc Jacobs, or Miuccia Prada, it was always on busts,” recalls Julie de Libran, who worked alongside these iconic designers before eventually starting her own label. “Usually, I draw, I drape. For the past two seasons, I’ve gone back to draping, moulding and sewing on my own. Giving myself this time again is quite magical. It’s a night job. I retreat into my bubble. It gives me a lot of energy and strength. I particularly like muslin, you can play with it, even if it’s very challenging because the seams are delicate.”
► Hands Up: Julie de Libran ◄ “A sketch that is superimposed on another held by almost invisible gloves is an image that evokes the passage from one dimension to another, the impulse that invites the sign to become a dress. Each collection is a moment of exploration that introduces a new story and allows us to travel into the creative dimension where memory and vision overlap and originate the creative act”. – Sofia Crociani
► Collection Snapshot: Aelis ◄ Her look speaks for her. Cecilia Matteucci Lavarini, often defined eccentric is a collector who lives for fashion and loves fashion. She resembles a modern Duchessa Casati, or else a Modigliani muse, or perhaps a woman who just stepped out of a Boldini painting – but always with the attitude of a businesswoman. Over the years, she has gathered more than 3,000 pieces (minus the 309 she donated to the Galleria del Costume of Palazzo Pitti in Firenze) consisting of Haute Couture, Prêt-à-Porter and accessories. All of this is layered, exposed, and stored in her awe-inspiring home where every corner conveys style and art.
► Just One Piece: Cecilia Matteucci ◄ Couture Impressions: Laura Gulshani
► Discover it now ! ◄ As senior archive editor at Vogue.com, Laird Borrelli-Persson is an invaluable source of fashion knowledge. When she is not reviewing rising and lesser-known designers, her articles explore obscure and epic moments in a contemporary context, reminding us – though never overtly – that a deep reservoir of creation flows underneath what we see on the runway today. Based in New York, she has authored several books on fashion, most recently Marimekko: The Art of Printing and Vogue: Fantasy and Fashion.
► A Take On Fashion: Laird Borrelli-Persson ◄