Haute Couture Week FW22/23 – DAY 2 !

► Discover the Official Calendar 
► Discover the Official Haute Joaillerie Calendar Yesterday’s Lookbook
In Ovid’s Metamorphoses, a classic text that inspired this collection, the weaver Arachne is transformed into a spider by Minerva, Daphne becomes a laurel tree, Venus turns the blood of her lover Adonis into a flower… With no attempt to parody, no plagiarism, Iris Van Herpen holds the secret behind such poetic alchemy. The flowing of the water becomes cloth, she recreates all the streams, all the meanderings, all the complexity of life. Under a rain of golden moons, her neo-ancient fantasy summons contemporary issues. Post-humanism, metaverses, digital identities are at the heart of a reflection in which the hand play a key role. A hand freed, precise, rigorously tracking the outline of a body in bloom, in full metamorphosis – all visible through these drapes in waves, these dresses in pineapple fibre, these ribbons reproducing faces.
► Hands Up: Iris Van Herpen “How many hooks will you put on your collar, sweetheart?” Madame Jacqueline, Première d’Atelier Flou, asks a worker to fill out her materials handling form. A celestial voice answers her, “I have seven centimetres…” “Yes, then four.”  Everything is white, the sky has put on its translucent coat. This is the first collection since the return of the atelier at 11 rue François 1er in Paris. The dream is within reach. Based on the theme of the tree of life, the collection, so intimate, is one with the atmosphere. Winter makes the gesture shine, in weightlessness, with delicacy, in all its virtuosity. Not tulle, but muslin, Georgette, guipure, materials that escape under the fingers. Also, lace. Nothing that cannot be assembled by machine, and up to 400 hours for a dress. Embroidered cottons evoke ancient tablecloths, macramé backs that almost conjure up the ghost of Madeleine Dior, the designer’s mother. A Bar jacket is entirely pleated, molded, all folds are held inside out.
► Hands Up: Christian Dior Couture The pervasive sense of serenity underpinning Rabih Kayrouz’s latest Haute Couture collection reflects his ability to weigh the moment. Utterly emotive, yet a self-described logical thinker, the Lebanese designer’s deliberate approach to haute couture has a reassuring effect that allays fear about the tumult of the times. Approaching rarified craftsmanship with the cool simplicity of ready-to-wear, the uncomplicated nature of his clothing – albeit with occasional deference to voluptuous proportions – follows a few simple principles such as clean lines, flowing silhouettes, and comforting colours.
► A Conversation with Rabih Kayrouz Christophe Josse chose to stage his collection in the futuristic setting of the Abraxas spaces designed by Ricardo Bofill in Noisy le Grand. “This season, my hands are willing, eager to make, to perfect, without ever constraining. What interests me is the false purity. Haute couture is not a debauchery of glitter. It’s something accomplished and desirable that makes you want to reach out and grab it”, he explains. It’s a story of lines, materials, a tactile alchemy, teeming with contrasts – like these rope sandals highlighted with gold ringed medallions, or these belt buckles with blown glass drops. A dozen silhouettes for a contemporary collection that is also reminiscent of “a diffuse past”. There are wool crepes, astrakhan furs made with mohair and cashmere, on a faille aviator jacket punctuated with a large collar, an ivory jersey suit, inlaid with old lace, very graphic. A little is everything.  
► Hands Up: Christophe Josse Based in London, Kerry Taylor Auctions brings over 40 years of expertise to historic and vintage fashion and holds numerous world record auction prices for Haute Couture. Internationally recognised, the auction house is partnering for the first time on July 7th with Maurice Auction, a new venture whose co-founders, Marie Laurence Tixier and Salomé Pirson, are longtime specialists in fine jewels and decorative arts. Here, Taylor singles out one of the most remarkable pieces among the lots.
► Just One Piece: Kerry Taylor 
Antonis Tsagronis
Antonis Tsagronis
Αντώνης Τσαγκρώνης  Αρχισυντάκτης: Αtticanews.gr  iNews – Newspaper – iRadio - iTV e-mail : editor@atticanews.gr , a.tsagronis@gmail.com AtticaNews Radio:  http://www.atticanews.gr Facebook: @Αντώνης Τσαγκρώνης Facebook: @Atticanews.gr https://www.facebook.com/Atticanewsgr-111129274130/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/Antonis%20Tsagronis Twitter: #AtticanewsGr Instagram:Antonis_Tsagronis (διαπιστευμένος δημοσιογράφος στο Προεδρίας της Δημοκρατίας, Υπ. Εξωτερικών, Υπ. Πολιτισμού & Αθλητισμού, Υπ. Παιδείας και Θρησκευμάτων, Υπ. Τουρισμού, Υπ. Υγείας, , Yπ. Εργασίας & Κοινωνικών Υποθέσεων, Υπ. Προστασίας του Πολίτη, Υπ. Μετανάστευσης και Ασύλου)

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